There is enough information in that page for an experienced builder to construct the latest version.
The angle of the sides has been steepened from 30 degrees from vertical to 22.5 degrees. Observation of previous hives showed that the bees would build larger cells (for drone brood) as they built downard and that this would collide with the sides. With the steeper sides the bees will have to add additional cells beyond the normal geometry to get closer to the wall. It is expected that this will reduce comb attachment to the walls. I consider comb attachment detrimental to mite rejection in Kenyan (slope sided) hives. Attachment is not much of a problem with comb manipulation if the hive is long enough to allow access to free the last comb with a long knife.- a possible argument in favor of the vertical walled Tanzanian design. Also, frames can be used in Tanzanians, so adheasions would be to the side of the frame rather than to the hive side (see Jackson Long Hive).
For some pictures of a newly developed Tanzanian (vertical sides) see Steve's site at http://www.xscd.com/tbh Of particular note in Steve's hive is the communicating area over the bars, with perforated bars to allow bee access. That hive could also allow easy supering with conventional shallow frame boxes.
Returning to the CalKenyan, the inner wall in this latest design is stabilized with additional woodwork as some buckling has been seen when the polyethylene liner gets warm. Also, the latest hive uses white poly, rather than black, which should also reduce buckling as it absorbs less heat. If you live in a colder climate it will probably be desireable to use black poly on the long side facing the equator (the entrance should face east). In any case your hive should be in a sunny spot but if it gets very hot some overhead shade will help to keep the hive cool at midday.
After moving the hive to design number 3 (30 degree slope, narrow open bottom slot, no screen), the drone brood was agressively excised for several weeks by cutting and removing drone brood comb. Examination in the later stages of this effort showed greatly reduced mites on this brood, down to one in 20. The drone excision was relaxed and now, although I have a large number of drones, sampling has revealed almost no mites - certainly less than 2%. I attribute this to the steep sides of this third design.
I expect that the mite rejection will be further improved as any mites falling from the central region will now drop directly onto (and presumably through) the bottom screen.
If you do not have a means of ripping stock than a small block plane or rasp and sandpaper may be used to shape certain pieces.
You will also need two clamps for securing material up to 2 inches thick to your worktable. A sturdy worktable is required (a stout picnic table will do). Take care in your setups so that you do not cut the table.
An 8 ft length of 1 x 12 board, or shorter pieces of salvage for constructon the hive ends. This is 3/4
inch thick by somewhat more than 11 inches across (11 1/8 to 11/3/4).
16 #8 flathead screws 5/8 inch long for side frame assembly.
12 #12 round head screws 2 inches long, for leg attachment.
12 fender washers, with clearance for the #12 screws. Fender washers have a large diameter relative to the size of the hole.
13 flathead screws 1 1/2 inch long, small diameter (drywall screws are OK here) for landing porch attachment and
roof frame assembly
20 2 inch deck screws to join the end walls to the side walls and for fabricating the end walls.
4 2.5 inch deck screws for fabricating the end walls.
12 1 inch wire nails.
30 feet of 1 by 2 pine or fir. Select for straightness and small, tight knots. This is to be cut into 4 pieces the length of the
hive (typically 4 ft interior) and 8 pieces about 19 inches long. 4 of these short pieces need only be about 1 inch wide
and could be ripped from wider stock.
Wood strips, about 9/16 thick, 1/2 to 3/4 wide, about 2 ft long.
One 4 ft by 8 ft sheet of corugated polyethylene (for a four ft internal hive length). This material
(sold under various trade names such as Corroplast) is available from
a plastics shop or from a sign frabricator. You have probably seen this material used for those annoying "Work at Home" or
"Work from Home" signs, but these are inconviently small for most of this application. Political campaigns can be a rich
source of this material, often in full 4 ft by 8 ft sheets - contact the candidate's campaign headquarters or just wait a
while after the election. In most juridictions such signs become illegal postings within a few days or a week after the
One 36inch by 5 ft sheet of corugated polyethylene if you wish to make a roof from this material, otherwise
appropriate plywood and other roofing materials. Additional poly from a full sheet may be used for end covers and
rain guards as shown or these may be made from smaller salvage.
Two strips of heavy duty aluminum foil the length of the roof interior. This is required if you make the roof from courrugated poly
as even the white poly is somewhat translucent and can act a heat trap. Even with a wood roof it will improve thermal performance
in both hot or cold weather.
2 or 3 5 foot lengths and 4 16 inch lengths of 1 by 3 for the roof frame. You may use 2 5 foot lengths and
rip one into two pieces for the roof side rails a shown.
One white poly grid made for use as a florescent light diffuser. This is a little less than 2 ft by 4 ft.
This is used for an "anti-swarm" grid and also serves to limit the depth of the comb. If you elect to not use this
grid then the hive should be built with shallower sides, as deep comb can tear in hot weather.
Carpenter's glue. This need not be waterproof as all glue joints are protected from the weather.
A length of 8 mesh hardware cloth for the bottom screen. As this tends to be irregular
across the roll you should cut a strip along the length of the roll. The length should be about two inches longer than the
inside length of the hive. The exact width is determined by the width of the completed hull which may vary but a 12 inch wide
strip is more than enough if the hive is deep enough to require a hanging grid and can be trimmed down when installed.
Courrugated cardboard for insulating the side walls. This can be salvaged from courrugated shipping boxes.
16 feet of 1 by 3 pine or fir for the roof frame. Material required will vary depending upon the length of the hive.
3/8 inch staples or tacks.
9/16 inch staples or tacks.
A medium size hive has have 48 inches inside length for economy of materials (the inner and outer sides can be made from a single large sheet of corrugated polyethlyne). This length will require about a 60 inch length for the roof to ensure proper overhang. This is the hive built in the example.
If the side material is plentiful than I recommend a somewhat longer hive as the excess space can be used for storage or internal feeders.
Set the material in front of you with the long part from side to side.
Mark a rectangle to be cut out at the upper left corner of the material, 3/8 inch wide and 1 1/2 inch vertically. Measure from the lower right corner across 4 1/2 inches and mark.
Measure from the upper right corner across 9 1/4 inches and mark.
Draw a construction line between the two marks. This should form a line tilted away from the right edge at approximately 22.5 degrees.
From the upper edge, measure down along the construction line 2 1/4 inches and mark the point. Below this point mark the construction line as a cutting line.
Place a straightedge at the upper left corner of the material and move the right end of the straightege until it intersects the construction line at the marked point. Mark a line between the corner and the point as a cutting line.
Measure 14 inches from the upper right corner of the material along the upper edge and mark a cutting line, parallel to the first cutting line and terminating at the second. This shortens the long narrow spur that is part of the smaller template.
The piece at the lower left (the larger piece) is a half template for the upper part. The small rectangular cutout is to recieve the ridge part of the roof assembly.
The other large piece is a half template for the bottom part. Cut out at the cutting lines. You should have a small rectanglular scrap, a narrow trianglular scrap, and two half templates.
Place the smaller template for the lower part with its upper edge aligned with the upper edge of the material. The edge of the template should align with the two of the previous cut lines. Mark the short cut line and the centerline. Flip the template across the centerline and mark the cut lines.
Continue alternating and flipping templates until you have two large top pieces and two smaller bottom pieces marked.
Rough cut to the intersection of the cutting lines.
Finish the cut with a hand saw while supporting the material.
Drill holes large enough so the screws do not bind.
Insets for the heads ensure that the screws will project into the material.
The entrance should be between the areas supported by the end walls, rather than lower down where the structure is weaker.
If you are using the half lap joints, the length of the perimeter pieces are the same as the dimensions of the side panels, about 19 inches high and (in this case) 48 inches long, the interior length of the hull. Cut four long pieces and two short pieces. You should have enough material left to fit inside across the rectangular frame, dividing it into two open panels. These will be cut to size later after the basic frame is finished. Using a table saw, cut the half laps. The distance from the end is equal to the width of the material used for the side frame and the depth is half of the thickness of the material.
You can set the correct depth by making cuts in from both sides of some scrap material of the same thickness, adjusting the saw upward until you cut through.
With the fence well clear, mark and make the first lap joint.
Once you have made the first joint you can set the fence to use with a gauge block (do not use the fence as a gauge directly as the workpiece can then bind against the saw and kick back). With the first piece against the saw, put a gauge block (a wood scrap that you can align and position easilly) at the end. Adjust the fence against this. You can now position the block against the fence at the edge toward you, and with the workpiece on the miter gauge (set to 90 degrees), slide the workpiece against the gauge. Clamp the workpiece to the miter gauge with your hand and remove the gauge block. You may now procede to make the first cut, with subsequent cuts as you move the workpiece further from the fence to form the half lap. The laps at each end are made on the same side of each piece.
Finish the lap by block sanding the high spots off.
Being sure to keep the marked matching ends together, assemble the frame by gluing the joint, clamping in square alignment, and attach with screws, #8 flathead, 5/8 inch long.
Trial fit the skin to make certain that it does not extend beyond the frames at the front and back ends as we need to have the wood of the frame contacting the end pieces.
Using the stapler, attach the outer skin to the frame, making sure that it aligns with the top and side edges and extends beyond the bottom edge.
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As each joint is made it is first glued then placed in the marked position on the end and screwed.
For the first side attachment you can place one side flat on the table with the outer skin down and the short edge parallel to and slightly beyond the edge of the table. Next, add glue to the joint and place an end piece on this side - the temporary cleat will hold it from falling. Slide the end to align with the positioning marks. Using a square to keep a 90 degree angle, attach the end to the side frame with screws.
[Picture to be provided here]
You may then place the end on the table with the side vertical. Take care not to stress the joint you just made. The part of the side for the next joint should overhang the table so that you may drive the screws from the bottom
Glue and position the second side. You may place the other prepared end atop the assembly to stabilize it. You may also staple a scrap of cardboard or poly across either opening to hold it in place.
Working from the bottom at the edge of the table attach the second side to the face.
[Picture to be provided here]
You may then place the unit on the floor and glue and screw the other end on. As you make the last attachment make certain that the assembly is not twisted. This can be checked by placing a straightedge across the large opening at each end and sighting on them.
[Picture to be provided here]
The hull may now be placed on the table inverteds for attaching the mite screen.
The long dimension of the screen should come from the long dimension of the material - allong the roll rather than across it, as this dimension will have straight wires.
Cut the screen to a little less than the width of the outer edges of the frames at the bottom.
Cut the screen 2 inches longer than the interior length. Fold the corners down, then fold the ends up.
Staple one end in place. Stretch the screen and staple the other end, adjusting the fold if necessary. Then staple along the bottoms of the side frames.
The screen is permanently attached as by closing the hull on three sides it becomes much more resistant to twisting. The bees do an excelent job of keeping the hive interior clean and the upper surface remains accessable from the top when the top bars and hanging grid are removed.
This should be a 45 degree cut
The foot base is cut at 67.5 degrees.
Additional cuts are used to shape the leg. The vertical foot will then fit inside of a cat food can which can be filled with sand and oil or with water (which must be replenished daily). This is to foil ants.
The foot may be shaped with a rasp or sander and finshed to form a more pleasing shape.
Using 1 inch wire nails, affix the rim as shown.
Drill through with clearance holes for the screws (some of these will penetrate the folded end of the mite screen). Attach the porch using glue and screws from this inside of the hive above and below the screen.
The cardboard is retained by stapling across the edge.
Cut away one corner for clearance at the interior ramp
Set the bottom edge of the liner on the mite screen and staple the liner onto the frame. Be sure that the top staples are not at the upper edge of the frame, but rather at least 3/4 inch below this edge.
Fold the excess over the edge, but do not staple yet.
Cut a piece of scrap lath 22 inches long to form an inner bar gauge. Set this into the hull so that it is parallel with a line across the width of the hive. The bottom of the gauge should be about 1/2 to 3/4 inch below the top edge of the hive.
Push the edge toward the center so that the portion of liner between the crease and the first fold will be vertical when the hive is in place. The horizontal distance between these vertical portions should be 22 inches, the same as the length of the inner bar gauge.
This little ledge will keep the bars from poping up if they are side loaded when you handle them. This is not a problem when they are full of comb, just when they are empty).
Maintaining this ledge staple along the top edge of the frame on both sides.